When it comes to climbing I’m a total wimp. I hate falling and will resort to most things to avoid it. However I realise that if I’m going to push myself then the occasional plummet earthwards is inevitable. When climbing at my limit, I’m always searching for gear, working on the theory that when I do loose my battle with gravity it will be as short and painless as possible.

Wild Country’s Superlight Rocks are a set of wires like no other. They are basically an ordinary Rock, but sliced in half, thus saving 70 grams over an ordinary set of Rocks 1 to 6. Unlike every other chock on the market there is only a single strand of cable attached to the nut. There are several advantages to this. First and most important, in shallow cracks and features, they create bomber runners. Placements that with normal wires would be at best marginal and at worst non existent are now solid, dependable anchors. In traditional placements, the wires perform as well as their full sized counterparts, albeit at a strength penalty. As their name suggest, the Superlights’ weight is almost unnoticeable, making them pretty handy for those routes where a third set of small nuts seems prudent. Rotated ninety degrees the Superlights are offset, creating protection possibilities in shallow flares and seems.

Superlight Rocks are permanent feature of my rack. Together with a 1-11 of normal wires, a few duplicates and a set of RPs. I seem to be able to protect most things.

I really rate these wires, but they do have their drawbacks. The single strand of cable means they aren’t as stable as traditional wires and personally I wouldn’t consider taking them as my only set of wires. (If you do want a set of really light wires for long rock climbs then the Metoluis Curve Nuts are probably your best bet.) Another disadvantage of single cable is durability. The cable get easily bent removing these wires and after prolonged use begins to fray. Superlight Rocks will last, but care needs to be taken removing then. The wires also aren’t as strong as traditional wires and though when placed properly they will hold massive falls, I’d still prefer to use a normal wire for belays.

Conclusion

Wild Country Superlight rocks are an outstanding piece of innovative hardware. When trad climbing I always carry them, as they can create bomber runners where nothing else would go, however I wouldn’t consider taking them as my only set of nuts. It is a pity that Wild Country doesn’t make them in sizes 7 and 8 as I often come across marginal placements where a larger Superlight would fit in better. Well worth £50 for a set.